Outside

Outside

I’m updating my website and found myself searching for images on discs from a few years ago.  I actually came across a set of images from Tokyo that I have not edited or looked at in some time.  I hadn’t forgotten about these images but I found myself looking at the pictures with a different perspective, another person’s eyes.  The images were from around May of 2005.  I was different.  I had left New York already.  We were living in Honolulu.  My career was just blooming.  I saw things differently.  I felt things differently.  But essentially, its still me.  The images retain that feel from my perspective.

Watching, wishing.  Outside.

Hot, sweaty and dirty

Hot, sweaty and dirty

Japan is really hot in the summer.  Unbearable.  Even the locals said the summer heat was the worst in years.  Little did I know I would encounter weather so bad.

It was really hot.  Anyway…I traveled to Japan this past August for a guidebook and photographed just about every tourist site in 13 cities across southern Japan including Tokyo.  I flew into Tokyo and traveled to Shimonoseki, Hiroshima, Kurashiki, Kobe, Osaka, Nara, Kyoto, and Nagoya.  Spend a few days in Tokyo and decided (and was pushed by an aggressive editor) to go back to Kyushu and covered Fukuoka, Kagoshima, and Kuamamoto.  I spent loads of time staring out the window of the Shinkansen bullet train watching the world blur by.

I’ve been to Japan many times in the past for both pleasure and family as well as work.  I shot my way across the Noto Peninsula for a bicycling magazine and I’ve done many a project on my own throughout Tokyo and surrounding areas.  Japan isn’t new to me but its always an adventure.  Karaoke (yes, I sang), hot baths (no…too darn hot), rotating sushi bars (pretty cool), sake (need you ask), yukatas (if I can find one that fits) and Godzilla (grrrrr!)  But this trip wasn’t just about badly howling Frank Sinatra songs and tossing empty beer cans into the street because heaven forbid the Japanese make throwing trash away easy…it was about taking pictures…and let me tell you I took some pictures.  I think I captured on an average about 2000 images a day and that equals about 50,000 images…and thats on the conservative side.

Seems all I did was have my face buried behind my camera snapping away.  And when I wasn’t taking a picture, I spent most of my Tokyo time (and for that matter in every city I traveled to) drinking Pocari Sweat, the Japanese version of Gatorade (and neither taste better than the other) while standing and sweating over a vending machine.  The heat and humidity just about killed me.  On one of my last days in Kyushu, I just about fell to heat exhaustion.  I don’t think I’ve ever been that hot.  Not even after a tough workout class with my iron-butt trainer have I had salt stains ring my shirts and socks that seemed as if they came out of a washing machine.

So I was a hot, sweaty travel photographer.  Glamorous?  Well, I got to travel to these exotic and foreign destinations visiting tourists spots and restaurants but its hard to enjoy.  You are there to capture, as best as you can, the essence and feeling of that location, the taste of this food, or the peace in that temple.  All of this has to be done on a frame or two and done within an extreme short period of time.  In most cities, I had only a day or two to cover what most tourists would cover in a week.  I mean from train station to museum to park to castle to museum to restaurant to store to museum to temple to shrine to restaurant to scenic area to historic spot to statue to ferry to train to bus to hotel and so forth all the while you’re deciphering a map written in Japanese hoping for a moment of brilliance that never comes.  From sunrise to sundown for close to a month.  You get very little sleep, rest, or time to enjoy anything.  And talk about the walking.  I walked so much I wore the rubber off my new Lacoste sneakers within the first two weeks.  And did I mention the heat?

There is also the amount of equipment I have to carry.  Multiple cameras, lenses, laptop, cords, cases, hard drives, more cords, flash cards, cases, bags, zip locks, and even more cords.  Also clothes.  Its not fun.  The fact that you are always fearing a hard drive (although I had four of them) would go down loosing thousands of images is enough to make you stay up at night.  It was no different in the old days with film but digital seems to be tougher as there is just so many more accessories to carry around.  You could still in one way or another loose your film.   In my college days, I back packed through Central America and Southeast Asia.  I carried a film camera, a few lenses, and a few rolls of film.  Once my kit (camera, film, passport, etc..) got left behind at a bus station in Saigon because a porter forgot to load it onto our bus.  It arrived the next day, no problems asked.  I sweated that one.  Now…its a different story.  Way too much on the line.  Yet, today I feel like I am just a walking byte.

You also have to do all the logistics and planning, deal with the  language barriers, read maps and outdated guidebooks, try to communicate with unfriendly locals who don’t want their picture taken.  Cloudy weather when you need sun, dirty clothes that need a wash, and raincoats that never fold small enough to carry comfortably.  Train schedules, flights, tickets, overhead baggage.  Odd sized money, coins, vending machines, strange foods… travel photography isn’t what you think it is.  Its not walking up an noon with a foreign beer hangover and going to make epic photos of a group of monks at an ancient temple.  Its waking up at 5am with a foreign beer hangover hoping some monk won’t scream bloody hell at you because you forgot to take off your shoes when you entered…or how you walked in circles trying to find some obscure cafe some writer wrote about but never went to…or trying to explain to someone who doesn’t speak English who doesn’t understand my bad Japanese or pantomime hoping they’d explain where the hell I am on a map that isn’t written in English.

Travel is tough.

Gillette

Gillette

You know…I always have fun in Japan.  Somewhere somehow someone is doing something strange.  Its not strange just to Western people, its just strange. For instance, I remember a while ago this older lady…maybe she was in her 40s…not old by any means, was dressed a bit too young.  She wore clothing more suited for a teen or young hip thing in Harajuku.  Tights, short skirt, black top, gaudy jewelery, high heels, a hip little hat and the likes and she was listening to an Ipod or Imusic whatever and every the music would hit a cresendo, she’d bust a move!  I mean “…let your body moooove to the music…hey, hey, hey…come on Vogue…”  Total Madonna.  We had just arrived in Tokyo and were riding the train into town and I couldn’t unpack a camera fast enough to capture her.  I thought maybe she was a dance instructor as she was actually dancing.  Why do I remember and telling you this story?  Because she was really kicking it!  I mean it was like I was watching a show.  I don’t think the modern reader would relate to this chic vogueing but thats what she was doing.  Snapping her fingers and the whole bit.  A dance show right in front of me…however, it was tame for most western viewers.  I mean you’d probably not be too impressed to see this if you’ve lived in New York or other crazy cities where this would be the norm.

But this is Japan!  I mean people don’t fall too far from the flock.  No one looked at her.  No one noticed her.  No one said a thing.  It was as if she didn’t exist or people just didn’t want to get involved.  Everyone ignores everyone else.  On the train, everyone is face down playing on their, pardon my bad words, their effing cell phone.  ALL THESE PEOPLE WON’T LOOK YOU IN THE EYES AS THEY ARE TOO DAMN BUSY TEXTING ON THEIR PHONES!!!

sorry…i lost it for a second.

There are just too many people in Japan hence people, although they tend to act like each other, will completely ignore someone who is making waves in the ocean.  And with the amount of people packed in Tokyo, it surely is an ocean of peoples.

So…

Today was a special day.  I was riding a train to know where when this moderately attractive girl (fashionable, tall, thin, whatever) gets on and sits across the car from me.  I didn’t really notice her as many Japanese girls dress fashionably strong and as anything, they really don’t stand out too much. Anyway as the train ride goes on, I look up from my trains slumber and notice she’s digging through her big purse.  I perk up and watch and to my amazement…she pulls out a razor and mirror and BEGINS TO SHAVE HER FACE!  I MEAN SHE IS SHAVING THE HAIR OFF HER FACE!!!

Wait…is this she a he?  Well, maybe so.  No one seemed to notice except for the business suited guy across from me noticed I started taking pictures with my point and shoot.  I think he then looked across the train and noticed the tranny (I still don’t know) shaving her face. He kinda smiled at my disbelief or maybe he was smiling at his own.  He never made eye contact with me as he pulled out his cell phone, and well, you know…

The woman sitting next to Gillette her noticed the shaving but politely ignored it.  I think she was annoyed but didn’t say anything.  Would a New Yorker have?  I don’t know.  Either way she/he was shaving her face.

Whether its a girl or not (check out the legs!) she was still shaving her face.  I know many women are blessed with hair they don’t necessarily want.  But I think most would at least have the care to shed the hair off their chinny chin chins in public.  Well, I can’t answer for this person but I was still amazed.

I can’t say this is the most amazing thing I’ve seen in Japan but it ranks up there with Japanese acting odd in public.  There was a grass eater boy on the train a few stops ahead back and I thought it was a girl (he was dressed in layers and looked like a girl in fashion heat) but the veins on his arms gave him away.  So I thought maybe Gillette was a boy but I still don’t know.  I didn’t see an Adam’s apple and she did see soft like a woman.  I must admit sweety was cute enough to be a girl but life only knows. Maybe next time, I’ll be lucky enough to sit closer to her.

Maybe dude looked like a lady but then again I’m dating myself.

When all else fails and you long to be
Something better than you are today
I know a place where you can get away
It’s called a dance floor, and here’s what it’s for, so…